The immediate thought of pedaling a bicycle around the frenzied streets of the heart of Paris sounds insane. It's not. It's as safe as walking, and is a lot faster. Biking liberates you to cover distances more quickly while allowing you to travel streets that are impossible in an automobile. And you can park your bike almost anywhere!
Bike-tour operators in Paris work hard to ensure the safety of participants. They offer well-maintained bicycles, encourage the use of helmets, (which are not required by law but are recommended), and present lessons in which they familiarize participants with the bikes. And there is safety in numbers: a few cyclists riding together have a noticeable presence on the streets, which accords them all the needed respect.
The guides know Paris by heart. They live in the Paris area and have biked the city so many times! They comment on the historical sites, stop for good photos, can tell you just anything on neighborhood characteristics. Normally, a tour covers about 10 miles in about 3 to 4 hours. There are three tour companies who specialize in English commentary: Paris Bike, Paris Velo and Paris a Velo. Each company has a variety of interesting itineraries which include pedaling by some of the more renowned sites such at the Eiffel Tower and Notre-Dame Cathedral, with forays into areas along the St-Martin canal or up to the Butte aux Cailles. Routes avoid heavy traffic on main thoroughfares. As you cycle along these "backroads," you gain an insider's peek into the homes of the Parisians; you see where they shop; where the kids play; where they walk their dogs; where they go to market; and where they stroll and chat with others on warm summer evenings.
Each of these three companies also offers night excursions to view illuminated monuments; the bicycles have lights and, if you really are a biking enthusiast with good stamina, you can take a 40-mile tour to Versailles which includes a castle visit during the six-hour tour. You don't have to be a professional bike rider; you just need a reasonable level of physical fitness and a sense of adventure.
Some friends just returned home from Paris, having taken Paris Velo's La Rive Gauche (Left Bank) tour, and they were very excited about their new-found method of getting around this busy city. Before setting off, each person in the group (totaling five including the guide), was supplied with a bike and helmet. After receiving lessons in how to operate everything and a basic itinerary, they were off! They rode past the highly ornated Paris Mosque and up a narrow street called rue Lacepede to place de la Contrescarpe (where Hemingway used to live), quaint with a new fountain. On to rue Mouffetard, an ancient Roman road which was actually the main road in southern Paris until the 19th century. Up a gentle hill to the Pantheon, the highest point on the Left Bank. The group stopped for a commentary about the commanding edifice in the shape of a Greek cross, topped by a huge dome. At this point, everyone in the group was used to their bikes, at ease riding in a group, and eager for more.
They rolled on down rue Soufflot to the Luxembourg Garden and off onto rue Garanciere, a quiet street lined with hôtel particuliers. The next stop was place St-Sulpice, a lovely square with a fountain facing the church of the same name. A few photos were snapped, and then the group zig-zagged through the St-Germain-des-Pres area, once a center of international Bohemian life and most picturesque. Then on along the quays of the Seine, taking in the Louvre on the other side of the river and the Musee d'Orsay on the bikers' side. They rolled along the long, straight rue de l'Universite, passing by the Assemblée Nationale and the Invalides garden, before arriving at the base of the Eiffel Tower. Someone had a flat tire and the tour guide put on another hat: that of mechanic. He fixed the flat and off they went to explore the 15th arrondissement, a residential neighborhood of parks, open-air markets, quiet streets and picturesque architecture. Rambling back to the starting point, they passed by Georges Brassens park, over a short cycling lane above the TGV train tracks, the place Denfert-Rochereau and Montsouris park; then, the challenge of a 200 foot climb up to the Butte aux Cailles. The group took its time and no one had a problem, thanks to the efficiently-geared bikes. The effort was rewarding - the Butte has retained an atmosphere of a country village, complete with apple trees and cobblestones.
Returning to the Paris Velo bike station, the group reviewed their 11-mile, 3-hour trek, gathering around a large map to note favorite places and make recommendations to the guide for future trips. My friends signed up for yet another tour the next day; they swear this is the only way to see Paris up close. I certainly plan to try it on my next visit! ¤
Some Parisian Bicycle Tour Operators: