Christmas in Provence

From St. Barbe's day to Shrovetide... A succession of festivals!

"Alegre, Diou nous alegre, cachofué ven, tout ben ven, Diou nous fague la graci di veïre l'an que ven. Se sian pas mai, que siguen pas men!"

"Let us rejoice, and may God keep us merry, for Cachofué, the season of All Good, is coming. May God protect us in the year ahead. and if we cannot grow fat, may we at least not be lean!"

In Provence, the Christmas season begins on 4th December, the day of St. Barbe, with the ritual sowing of wheat and lentils on dishes to provide some fresh green shoots to decorate the Christmas table. The Christmas festivities last for three whole days, from 24th to 26th December.

Further celebrations are held for the new year, Epiphany on 6th January, Candlemas on 2nd February and also for Shrovetide, which signals the end of winter and the beginning of Lent.

For the people of Provence, Christmas is a series of traditional customs beginning with the "gros souper," the large supper served on Christmas Eve before Midnight Mass. The table around which the family gathers is decorated according to custom with sprigs of myrtle and St. Barbe's wheat and lentil sprouts, which are symbols of prosperity.

Additional places are laid for the poor or for parents who have died, and during the whole three days of Christmas the table is not cleared, so as to allow angels to take part in the feasting.

THE NATIVITY

The nativity scene is an integral part of the Christmas atmosphere and setting. The "santons" (literally the "little saints," colourful carved wooden or clay figures of the Christmas story) such as those from Aubagne, or the nativity plays of Allauch and les Baux, which feature local shepherds who come down from the mountains to participate, are known throughout the world.

THE "GROS SOUPER" ON CHRISTMAS EVE

For this special meal three tablecloths are laid one on top of the other (such as those seen here in a white paisley-patterned Jacquard weave) and three large white candles are lit, symbolizing the Holy Trinity and Hope.

Seven meat-free courses are traditionally served, representing the labour pains of the Virgin Mary, including fried fish, "brandade de morue" (salt cod pounded with garlic, oil and cream) and stewed vegetables.

Each village has its own speciality dishes, always based on simple local produce. The custom requires starting with the traditional "cacho fio" (lighting of the fire). The youngest and the eldest member of the family together put into the fireplace a large log from a fruit tree, sprinkling it three times with a home-made sweet wine (vin cuit) while intoning the following words: "May the log rejoice, for tomorrow is the day of the Christmas bread, may only good enter this house, may the women give birth safely, the goats bring forth kids and the ewes lambs, may there be much wheat and flour and a full vat of wine. "

The meal ends always with the famous thirteen desserts which represent the Christ with the twelve apostles, the four "beggars" (almonds, figs, raisins and nuts) and finally the apples, pears, dates, plums, jujube fruit and dried fruits, white and black nougat, quince cheese, fondants and "pompe à l'huile" (Provencal Christmas cake) accompanied by the traditional Christmas vin cuit.

Each family may add its own variations such as oranges, mandarins, the almond paste sweets known as "calissons d'Aix," chocolates, often accompanying them with the delicious Vin Frizzant de Muscat.

THE "REPAS GRAS" AFTER MIDNIGHT MASS

The midnight feast follows after the Midnight Mass. The setting shown here is one of the quiet epicurian delight, with the table groaning with dishes such as assorted game, a variety of roasts and many fine Provencal wines.

To crown the feast, delicate fruit paste are offered, as well as an assortment of chocolates from famous makers and regional speciality liqueurs.

CHRISTMAS DAY

On the elegantly laid table, around which the family gathers for the traditional Christmas meal, the turkey has the place of honour. This is also a time to savour those lovingly-made aperitifs, whether flavoured with walnuts, oranges or peaches, which have been specially prepared and kept for this occasion.

The yule log made by the local master baker accompanies the thirteen desserts. Finally, on the evening of the 25th, tradition dictates a simple garlic and herb soup, "l'aigo boulido," as a respite from any seasonal excesses.

NEW YEAR

In Provence more than any where else, the setting is the essence of the feast. On this, the first day of the year, a roast and stuffed cock must be served, alongside twelve partridges, thirty black truffles and thirty white eggs: the cock stands for the year ahead, the twelve partridges for the twelve months, the truffles for the nights and the eggs for the days.

EPIPHANY

For the arrival of the three Wise Men, the people of Provence have a special dessert, a brioche (rather than a galette) garnished with crystallized fruit from the Pays d'Apt, accompanied by Frizzant de Muscat wine.

For sheer indulgence, the "calissons d'Aix", almonds, "oursins" and glacé chesnuts are brought in, shown laid on one of our Estello tablecloths.

The custom is that whoever finds the hidden bean in the Epiphany brioche should pay for the cake, reason enough for some people to swallow it!