CHAMPS ELYSEES AND INVALIDES.

The river Seine dissects this area, much of which is built on a monumental scale, from the imposing 18th century buildings of les Invalides to the Art Nouveau Avenues surrounding the Effeil Tower.

Two of Paris's grandest thoroughfares dominate the neighbourhood to the north of the Seine : the Champs Elysées has many smart hotels and shops but today it is more downmarket; and the rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré boasts the heavily guarded Palais de l'Elysée.

The village of Chaillot was absorbed into the city in the 19th century, and many of its opulent Second Empire mansions are now ambassies or company headquarters.

Streets around the place du Trocadéro and the Néo-Classical Palais de Chaillot are packed full of muséum and elegant cafés.

Palais de Chaillot and Trocadéro :

This immense Palais was built for the inernational exhibition of 1937 and is now home to four very different museums, variously devoted to french monuments, the history of cinema, ethnology, anthropology and human biology, and to marine and naval history.

The complex also contains the Cinémathèque repertory cinema and the huge Théâtre National de Chaillot.

The fountains and statues in the Trocadétro gardens below line up with the Eiffel Tower across the river and together forma spectacular display when floodlit at night. It is the place of the July 14th (Nation day) fireworks.

Addresses : / Musée des Monuments : phone 44 05 39 10. Open Mon, Wed-Sun 10am-6pm. /Musée de la Marine : phone 45 53 31 70. Open same days and hours. /Musée de l'Homme : phone 44 05 72 72. Open Mon, Wed-Sun 9.45am-5pm. / Musée du Cinéma Henri Langlois: Phone 45 53 74 39 Open Wed-Fri 10am-5pm; guided tours only, every hour.

The Invalides :

The Hôtel des Invalides (constructed 1671-1676) was designed by Libéral Bruand as a military hospital and retirement home for Louis XIV's soldiers.

Much of the huge classical building is now occupied by the Musée de l'Armée, a stagerring display of arms, armour and other war paraphernalia from prehitoric times to the two World Wars.

The Musée des Plans Reliefs consists of fascinating scale-models of French fortified towns.

Also on the site are Eglise Saint Louis soldiers'chapel, and the Eglise du Dôme, a hoghly decorated example of Louis XIV Baroque architecture, with a huge, gilded cupola visible from miles. Inside in colourful splendours is the porphyry sarcophagus of Napoléon.

Address : Esplanade des Invalides, 7th. Musée de l'Armée, phone : 44 42 37 72 - Open 10am-5pm.

Tour Eiffel :

When Gustave Eiffel built his tower for the 1889 World Fair, it was the tallest building in the world at 300m (984ft). It is now 321m with its aerial.

The distorted aspect from its base dramatically shows off the gracefull iron work. You can stop at the first or second platforms (accessible by stairs), but those who travel all the way to the top can see G. Eiffel's cosy salon and enjoy amazing panoramas.

The queues are shorter at night, when the city lights against the River Seine live up to their romantic image. There are gift shops, a restaurant and a post office on board...

Address : Champs de Mars, 7th. Phone : 44 11 23 45; Open until June, 1-15 Sept 9am-11pm; Aug 9am-midnight; 16 Sept-20 Mars 9.30am-11pm, daily.


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